THERE is something exhilarating about the prospect of a small walkabout in completely unknown territory and without any definite plans. Over the years, Bill and I have spent many happy holidays traipsing round southern Africa, so we know our region pretty well. We have a good working knowledge of its fauna and flora, its geography and topography, its history, people and its culture. Even when we visit new places, with our background knowledge about the sub-continent we usually have a reasonable idea of what to expect.
Not so in the land Down Under.
This was our second visit to Australia, so we were starting know a something about this vast and interesting country but we’d seen so little of it and still had so much to learn. Cultural differences often took us by surprise and, as nature lovers, we found it disconcerting to be so ignorant about the environment through which we were travelling. It was odd not to know the names of so many animals, birds and plants. The flip side, though, was that everything was so new and exciting. Already, our short, four-day camping trip was turning into an amazing journey of discovery. We’d spent the first of our four nights in the pleasant Lighthouse Holiday Park in the pretty seaside village of Burnett Heads after a magical day of shoreline explorations. Now we were heading inland to see something of Queensland’s vast interior.
After we packed up, we consulted our maps. Back in Brisbane, a couple of people had vaguely recommended Central Queenland’s Carnarvon National Park as a possible nature destination. It was about 600km west of Burnett Heads, so we thought we might head in that direction, taking a look at the smaller Cania Gorge on the way. The holiday park owner had recommended this lesser known little spot and we thought we might overnight somewhere in that area. Heading west away from the busy coastal belt, we found small-town Queensland an absolute delight. The wide streets, modest commercial buildings and shops, coupled with all those gracious traditional Queensland homes – decorative timber houses built on stilts – gave these unpretentious settlements a sense of timelessness. Gin Gin, Childers, Monto, Biloela and Moura – just looking at the names of those dots on the maps of Australia’s interior would make anyone want to explore it.
We reached Cania Gorge National Park fairly early and stopped in the pretty picnic area for brunch and a bit of a walk. According to the interesting interpretive display the gorge was the closest park to the coast offering views of Central Queensland’s striking sandstone landscapes. Its ochre and red rock formations towered over well-wooded gullies that invited exploration but you would need to put on your hiking boots to do so. There were only hiking trails and no tourist road network in the actual park. Although there was a caravan park on the outskirts, there were no camping facilities within the national park either, so we decided to carry on further that day and see what we could find.
It turned out to be a wise choice. Late afternoon found us setting up camp in a free camping area on the well-wooded bank of the Dawson River near the town of Moura. Australia’s highways and byways are dotted with free camping areas and these are well used by what the Australians call their ‘grey nomads’, retired folk who spend most of their golden years travelling around the country.
Most of them have huge caravans, motor homes or converted buses and are usually self-sufficient, with on-board kitchen, toilet and shower facilities. The grey nomads were quite well represented at this campsite but, it being school holidays, their numbers were complemented by big family groups and multi-generation fishing encampments. Facilities are often fairly rudimentary at the free camping areas.
Often there is just a long-drop toilet and no showers or washing up facilities.
However, the large Dawson’s River one had basic but more than adequate ablutions, a good, if non-potable water supply and a selection of covered areas with picnic benches and tables. Volunteers kept the river well stocked with fish and, together with the local municipality, had built and still maintained the campsite. There was a box for donations and you had to drop a dollar in the slot if you wanted a hot shower, but otherwise camping there was absolutely free.
The river provided good sport for the fishermen and plenty of old fashioned fun for the children. Next to the campsite was a fairly deep, easily accessed swimming hole over which some-one had built a foefie slide. A simple rope swing, suspended from a branch overhanging the river also provided the youngsters with hours of amusement. It was lovely to see so many children out and about, exploring the great outdoors. There wasn’t a single electronic device in sight and the entertainment laid on for the younger visitors wasn’t costing their parents a cent, but we couldn’t help feeling that these youngsters were privileged in a very special way.
As a keen birder, there was plenty of free entertainment for me as well.
With all the large trees growing on the river bank, the birding was excellent and I added a couple of interesting new ticks to my slowly growing Australian list. An added bonus that night was the fact that open fires were allowed at this campsite. Usually outdoor cooking Australia-style meant lighting up the communal steel, gas- or electricity- fired ‘barbi’. Our lamb chops were so much nicer that evening cooked, South African style, over an open flame. And there was something very festive about the big groups of campers of all ages gathered together around crackling fires.
We were up early the next morning, but not as early as the children. A gaggle of them were already splashing away in the river. At the large encampment next to us, three little girls, still in their pajamas and with unbrushed hair mussed from sleep, were deep in conversation alongside the dying embers of what must have been a spectacular bonfire last night.
Isn’t that what camping is all about?
HAVE YOUR SAY
Like our Facebook page, follow us on Twitter and Instagram
For news straight to your phone, add us on BBM 58F3D7A7 or WhatsApp 082 421 6033
