Legendary pastry chef still baking at 90

Creating a legendary pastry dish is a difficult feat for any chef, but having a well-known restaurant emerge from the same family using exactly that dish as a signature feature on the menu, is nothing short of inspiring.

Such a history of a chain of fish and seafood restaurants can be traced back to a Greek mother in Pretoria North, turning 90 on November 17, Liza Lazarides, and her layer-upon-layer delicate Greek pastry dish with honey and nuts, baklava.

In her home kitchen, she continues to create this signature baklava, each piece crafted with the same care and passion as in her and the restaurant’s humble beginnings.

She averages 60 cases of baklava per month (60 pieces per case).

Lazarides told Rekord as a Greek woman she cooked and baked as this was the tradition in all Greek communities.

“It was just how it was. Back then there were no delis, supermarkets or takeaways. For our families, mealtimes were the time when we all shared a table and talked about the day and made plans, always over big plates of home-cooked food. This was the best time of the day for me and food made it all possible,” she said.
She was the youngest of seven children and grew up during a time when her family had very little.

“My mother was very strict and taught us how to do things right. So everything that is prepared in my kitchen is prepared from scratch with natural ingredients. I even make my syrup and pasty from scratch. The simple joy that people take from eating these has always inspired me.”

For her signature baklava, she explained that it is necessary to prepare all the ingredients properly before starting.

“Make sure your equipment and preparation area is spotlessly clean. Pour loads of love into your cooking. I work according to a strict routine that creates the greatest calm in my life. Everything is made by hand. The syrup is made from scratch and I use only pecan and almonds, no peanuts. You must create generous fillings and not take shortcuts,” she advised.

She said she takes great pride in doing things consistently well.

“Every biscuit, every piece of baklava, must taste and look the same. I love how people enjoy eating what I prepare. I enjoy knowing that my products and foods are distinctive not only because of how they are prepared but also because I take great care in the packaging and presentation. It all has to work together,” said this perfectionist.

Lazarides started her home industry business in earnest in the late 1980s to support her sons’ businesses.

Then the community started ordering food, biscuits and cakes from her. The baklava was everyone’s favourite.

She had to supplement her family income as her husband suffered a stroke and was not able to work.

When her sons set up Ocean Basket in April 1995, she was there to support them. She made their baklava, washed and ironed their tablecloths and made their tarama and tzatziki dips.

This however is not her only contribution.

“As an active mother, you wake up at 05:00, prepare breakfast, and say your prayers. Live simply even if you have achieved great success. Never forget your roots. These are the principles I taught my children and they have built on this foundation and created restaurants that reflect these family values and make everyone feel welcome. That is my greatest contribution.”

Her deep-rooted appreciation for food and family ignited a spark in her sons.

She said the best hint she can give for making phyllo dough, is to remember it is made with four simple ingredients only: flour, vinegar, vegetable oil and water.

She also gave her secret ingredient away.

“This is one of those recipes that is so dependent on your mood. If you are focused and enjoying making it, it will turn out great. If you are in a hurry and rushed, it won’t work. Take your time.”

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