MTENTU Lodge, overlooking the pristine Mtentu River Estuary and a gorgeous stretch of almost untouched beach, was started by three young and optimistic South Africans as a eco-tourism enterprise.
The fact that it is an enterprise that is succeeding against quite a few odds offers hope to the fledgling but much-needed, low-impact ecotourism industry on the wild and wonderful stretch of coastline so aptly named the Wild Coast.
This rustic, unsophistacted and decidedly laid-back lodge has a strong environmental ethos and is very much in touch with local communities and its natural surrounds. Vibey, rather backpacker-orientated and remote because of the poor access road, it is a place that, not surprisingly is proving a hit with young adventurers from all over the world. You don’t have to be young, though, to enjoy it. We spent a wonderful and rather festive weekend there with a big party of not-so-young but adventurous friends and everyone enjoyed it thoroughly.
Getting there was half the fun. Though fairly close to our home it took us four hours and some careful 4X4 driving but it was such a beautiful journey and it was all part of the adventure. Transkei access roads to many tourist spots are, however, notoriously bad and, together with a general lack of infrastructure, are stumbling blocks for anyone trying to operate any sort of hospitality-orientated business. Too much development would not be good for the Wild Coast but the infrastructure could definitely be improved.
When we arrived we received such a warm welcome from the owners and we soon realised that their outgoing personalities were part of their recipe for success. Another important ingredient was the fun factor, with all sorts of outdoor activities on offer there. Some of our party were already there and the lodge was buzzing with energy. The more adventurous, including a couple of the lively children in our group, had arrived on horseback. They raved about their guided horse trek, along a 24km stretch of unspoilt Wild Coast shoreline, starting from the Wild Coast Hotel and Casino Resort, on the KwaZulu-Natal Eastern Cape border.
Their long ride hadn’t worn them out either. They were setting off on a guided hike to a waterfall the other side of the estuary, within the beautiful Mkambathi Game Reserve. They had another horse ride booked for that afternoon. Whew, I felt exhausted already.
The lodge is really gorgeously situated and Bill and I had left our tent at home and were staying in one of the comfortable wooden and canvas cabins, overlooking the river mouth. It is among the most pristine estuaries in the world and we were privileged to be there.
The lodge buildings blended well with their surroundings and did not detract from the abundance of natural beauty along this exquisite stretch of the Wild Coast. The communal areas and cabins, thatched and constructed out of wood and canvas, were linked by wooden boardwalks. Views of the river and the sea were framed by luxurious sub-tropical vegetation that had been disturbed as little as possible during construction. Solar panels and a wind turbine provided green power and catered for most of the lodge’s energy needs.
Behind the lodge the undulating grasslands rolled down to an incredibly rugged coastline. The often treacherous Wild Coast is not known by that name for nothing. It was summer, the season of flowers,. and a walk through the flower-filled grasslands was a reminder that this part of the Wild Coast fell within one of the world’s 35 recognised floral hotspots.
Here and there, the green carpet was broken by outcrops of grey weathered rocks, splotched with a bright vermilion lichen. Fire is an integral part of the grassland system. During winter when veld fires sweep through the area, these rocky outcrops provide shelter to gnarled, stunted, wind-sculpted shrubs, just as interesting as the wild flowers, from a botanical point of view.
Bill and I spent a lazy afternoon, taking leisurely strolls through the grasslands and along the beautiful beaches, then prolonging a tea break to watch the estuary fill as the tide came in. It was extremely hot, with hardly a breeze to stir the humidity-laden air, so a late afternoon swim in the denim blue estuary was most welcome.
By now the hikers and horse riders and fishermen had returned and we all gathered in the communal boma for sundowners and a sociable braai. Bill and I usually take short breaks and holidays on our own so it made a welcome change to be doing a trip with a big, festive group.
Mtentu Lodge was more than just a comfortable Wild Coast base, however, Everyone who shared our wonderful weekend there agreed that it had an unidentifiable, magical ingredient that made it a very special place. Perhaps it was the idealism that was the driving force behind the creation of this unique little spot. Back when they were living in London, the three owners dreamt of building their lodge in this beautiful place, not only as a business venture but as a way of uplifting the surrounding community.
In our often cynical world we tend to denigrate idealism. To call someone an idealist, a dreamer, often has negative connotations. Yet dreams can come true when a wagon load of enthusiasm, youthful energy, positive thought and plain old fashioned hard work is hitched to the star of idealism. Quite a while after our visit we still hear many good things about Mtentu and we wish its founders well.
In many ways they are pioneers, paving the way for the sustainable sort of eco-tourism that could well be the saving of this wild and wonderful land.
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