THE Umtamvuna Nature Reserves is another peaceful inland spot that offers respite from the crowds and congestion over the South Coast December season and Bill and I might well pack a picnic and do some flower spotting there.
It is an island of pristine wilderness, tranquility and scenic splendour, seemingly so remote, so far away from noisy civilisation, although it is just a short drive inland from Port Edward. Under the custodianship of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, the rugged reserve is incised by a deep river gorge, carved into the rocky ground by the Umtamvuna River, the natural border between KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape.
Don’t expect to drive around, ticking off the big five. For a start, there are no tourist roads in Umtamvuna, just a network of short walks and more challenging hiking trails. You will probably encounter troops of wary baboons and perhaps some antelope, small mammals and reptiles.
Primarily, though, Umtamvuna is a floral reserve and you need to walk it to appreciate fully what it has to offer. Although it is situated on the KwaZulu-Natal side of the river, its heart is really in Pondoland in the Eastern Cape. As a haven for plant life it is of immense importance for it is part of what scientists call the Pondoland Centre of Endemism.
In laymen’s terms this means it is part of an internationally recognised botanical hotspot, boasting a huge variety of grasses, wild flowers, trees and shrubs, many of them not found anywhere else on earth – and new plants are still being found in this wondrous floral region. In fact Umtamvuna is a flagship of one of South Africa’s most valuable areas of plant diversity, right up there with the much-touted Cape Floral Kingdom.
Outside the reserve, mankind and his activities have impacted on the Pondoland centre. Sadly, in unprotected areas, humans have probably hurried to extinction plants that have never even been discovered. That is what makes Umtamvuna so very important.
The whole of the Kruger National Park boasts about 2 000 plants, quite an impressive tally. Now consider this. Relatively tiny Umtamvuna gives shelter to about 1 250 flowering plants, including about 300 trees and shrubs. It is simply amazing!
Many of the plants in the reserve are extremely rare, including a large forest tree with the Latin name of Catha Abbottii, only discovered in 1986. It is named after a one of two South Coast botanists who are inextricably linked with the reserve, the late Tony Abbott and his mentor, the late Hugh Nicholson, who dedicated much of their lives to collecting and classifying the plant life.
Tony, assisted by a wonderful group of local ‘flower people’, was the curator of the herbarium at Umtamvuna, a gift he left to South Africa and an indispensable asset to scientific research.
So, you are not a tree hugger? You don’t have to be to appreciate this wild and wonderful place. Even if you can’t tell a daisy from a daffodil, you would be as bowled over as we are by the reserve’s spring wild flower display. In this season the extensive grasslands are transformed into a multi-coloured patchwork quilt.
The rolling terrain is also dotted with rugged outcrops of weathered rock, sheltering scrubby trees and shrubs. These attractive features add to the beauty of the reserve and provide a shady resting place when walking the more challenging of the trails.
The forest sections are cool and inviting on a hot summer day. Walk slowly, though, and quietly. Seemingly empty, the forested sections are alive with small creatures – shy forest birds, tiny blue duiker, rare samango monkeys and many more.
Grassland, forest, scrubby outcrops, kranzes, rivers, springs and wetland – the reserve boasts many different habitats. And a variety of habitats means a variety of birds. With more than 250 different feathered species – about half of the birds that occur in KwaZulu-Natal – and a good selection of `specials’, the reserve has a well-deserved spot on the Southern KwaZulu-Natal Birding Route.
The best way to appreciate Umtamvuna is to go armed with a stout pair of walking boots, a hiking stick (there are many steep sections) and a broad-rimmed hat (the gorge gets pretty hot in summer).
However, don’t let that put off the less energetic nature lover. You can drive right up the picnic shelters next to the new information centre at the entrance. Take a quick look inside the centre where a display of Tony’s flower photographs will give you an idea of why the reserve is so important.
Then unpack your picnic hamper, light a braai fire and, without taking another step, enjoy the beauty, the birdsong and Umtamvuna’s unspoiled sense of wilderness.
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