SUTHERLAND is famous for two attributes, its starry, starry nights and plunging temperatures..
The best way to find this delightful dorpie, tucked away in a remote corner of the Northern Cape, is to turn on the telly to check out the South African weather forecast. Spot the town with the lowest minimum temperature and it will probably be Sutherland.
However, its icy temperatures together with its crisp, unpolluted air, distance from major centres and elevation above sea level, all give its night skies phenomenal brilliance and clarity. Sutherland is the star-gazing capital of southern Africa.
Not surprising, the South African Astronomical Observatory is situated in Sutherland. It houses the Southern African Large Telescope, usually referred to as SALT, one of the largest single optical telescopes in the world.
Although Sutherland essentially remains a simple, thoroughly charming Karoo town, a fairly sophisticated tourist industry has grown up around its star-spangled night skies. There are plenty of attractive guest farms, guest houses, bed and breakfast establishments, good eateries and coffee bars – many of their names inspired by things astronomical. They more than adequately cater for visiting star gazers’ needs.
The observatory offers regular tours, has dedicated telescopes for visitors and has a visitors’ centre where amateur star gazers can set up their own telescopes.
We stayed in the immaculate little camping and caravan park at Sterland, a well-run guest farm on the edge of the town, where the owners, Jurg and Rita offer their extremely popular star-gazing sessions.
Arriving in Sutherland on a blistering hot summer day, it was hard to imagine ever being cold again. So much for Sutherland’s notoriously cold weather! We set up camp and proceeded to make friends with the welcoming committee – a bevy of hyperactive border collies and Jack Russells, a trio of friendly cats, a duck and a gaggle of geese. The collies were soon bored with our company and set off to herd an ostrich into a corner of the nearby field.
We set off to explore the town.
We needed to do some shopping but it was lunch hour and all the shops were closed so we had an excellent meal at a lovely little coffee shop while we waited for business to resume. As we were only spending a night in Sutherland, we should have been good tourists and gone to take a look at SALT.
We didn’t.
Bill and I love exploring quaint little towns and Sutherland, with its lovely old buildings, fascinating stores and friendly townspeople was just too beguiling. Many of the buildings were built or decorated with a distinctive grey stone found in the area.
We were footsore, hot and weary by the time we returned to the cool oasis that was our pretty Sterland camp site. The collies were still guarding the cornered ostrich – it didn’t seem too concerned – but the Jack Russells and the cats joined us for tea. A sleepy spotted eagle owl in a nearby tree announced its presence with a gentle hoot. We could set up home permanently in this peaceful little spot, we decided.
As daylight faded we went off to do some star gazing with Jurg and Rita. An old reservoir on the farm had been transformed into an auditorium, which was filling up fast with fellow star gazers. We watched a very interesting big-screen presentation on the major constellations and the universe in general that made us feel very small and insignificant then Jurg left us to watch a short DVD about the town of Sutherland while he and Rita set up the telescopes.
We trundled over to the Muisbos Amphitheatre, a circular enclosure, its sheltering walls made from dried, tangled branches of the tough Karoo bush known as muisbos. While we lined up to peer through the powerful telescopes at the ear-marked constellations and celestial bodies, Jurg and Rita provided us with plenty of information. Although they did this night after night they were just so enthusiastic about their beloved stars. And their enthusiasm was catchy. Our star gazing session was soon leaving us wonder-struck.
However, we were becoming uncomfortably aware of Sutherland’s other claim to fame. Bill nipped back to our campsite and fetched our thick jackets and scarves. Even
though it was mid-summer, the night was freezing. And Jurg was still in shirtsleeves.
“This is not cold! Wait for winter!” he said. I was suddenly not so sure I could set up home permanently in Sutherland.
Even the coldest winter night didn’t keep the stargazers away, Jurg added. He and Rita introduced visitors to the heavenly wonders every night of the year.
As we stepped up to take our turns at the telescopes Bill and I forgot all about being chilly. Even to the naked eye, the Sutherland stars were dazzling. Seeing them through a powerful telescope was simply a mind-blowing experience. But it did make me feel even smaller and more insignificant.
We spent a good couple of star-struck hours at the Muisbos Amphitheatre and we left there filled with wonder at the beauty of the amplified heavens. However, when we left the next morning we felt we hadn’t done the star bedazzled town full justice. There was just so much more to do and see. It made us determined to return some day to explore Sutherland and its fascinating surrounds more fully.
And we’d be good tourists – we’d go and visit SALT.
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