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Tent Travels: A lesser-known Kruger gem

If you are a birder or a tree hugger, you would love peaceful Maroela caravan and camping ground.

A SMALL, satellite rest camp for campers and caravanners, pretty Maroela is one of Kruger’s best kept secrets.

Situated on the banks of the Timbavati River near Orpen Rest Camp and gate, it is a green and shady, bird-filled place, both a twitcher’s and a tree-hugger’s delight. An added attraction is the fact that the rolling savannah plains between Orpen and Satara and east of Satara, are renowned as ‘big five country’. More often than not, game drives around Maroela camp offer prime game viewing and big cats abound here.

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For us, though, Maroela’s main attractions are its tranquillity, its gentle rustic nature and the fact that it offers a break from the hustle and bustle of the busier rest camps.

On previous visits to Kruger we’d enjoyed good game viewing and birding when we’d explored the network of gravel roads on our way from Satara to Maroela. This time round we decided to stay on the tar, travelling along the H1-2, which initially follows the Sand River, then turning north along the H1-3 to Tshokwane picnic site for our breakfast stop.

When we arrived Maroela Rest Camp was almost empty.

After the heavy rain the previous evening, the Sand River was flowing well. The road was still very wet in places and the rain-washed morning air was crisp and fresh. Game–wise, this route was a little quiet although we did find a couple of hyenas loping along the road and some large baboon troops, the cooler weather encouraging the youngsters to be particularly lively and playful. We also saw two small groups of ground hornbills and two hooded vultures.

Many of the puddles on the road were being used as bird baths and were also attracting thirsty tortoises. You always have to slow down after rain in Kruger as water on the road is a tortoise magnet.

When we reached Tshokwane picnic site, we discovered that it had benefited from a major revamp. Like its sister picnic site, Afsaal, on the Old Voortrekker road, its shop fittings, décor, theme and authentic South African food harked back to yesteryear, to the ‘Jock of the Bushveld’ era when the Lowveld was traversed by traders, transport riders and adventurers.

With roosterkoek, venison pies and plenty of other good traditional bushveld fare on offer it wasn’t surprising that the restaurant was doing a roaring trade. We bought two hot-off-the fire roosterkoek which we used to make our egg and bacon rolls. They were delicious.

Early morning hyena sighting.

At Satara Rest Camp, where we would be going after our two-day Maroela stay, we turned onto the H7. It was late morning and not much was happening but we stopped at the two viewsites on the way then drove on to Orpen to book into Maroela. Reaching Maroela after a pleasant morning on the road we found the camp almost empty and chose a shady site next to the fence overlooking the river.

The next day was one of those lazy, relaxed in-camp days that Bill and I enjoy from time to time. We did a short but not too rewarding morning drive through fairly dry country. It had been much greener further south so we hoped the rain we’d had while at Skukuza would find its way there.

As it was a Friday, the park started filling up a little that afternoon but by gate closing time it was still only about half full. Our fellow campers were a lovely bunch of people.

View from a viewsitre near Orpen Rest Camp.

The campers next to us were confirmed tree huggers who identified nearly 40 different tree species when they took a walk around the small camping area. There were also many keen birders among our ranks and even an entomologist who used an ultraviolet light to show us the many scorpions hiding away in fissures in the trees. We had a wonderful afternoon and evening chatting to so many friendly, interesting people. Nature lovers always have so much in common.

An old buffalo keeps an eye on the road.

When we went to bed that night, Bills set the alarm for 5am as we had an important date. Before setting of to our next camp, Satara, we planned to nip out the park and do the Hoedspruit parkrun. Enthusiastic parkrunners can become rather fanatic about this activity, I am afraid, and they go to all sorts of lengths to try out a new event.

 

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