A walk of faith

The gruelling walk is about 60 km and takes three days to complete. Every step brings the pilgrims closer to God.

As they walk they perform numerous rituals, including carrying stones on their heads. It is believed that they are registering their names at the mountain.

By doing so their names are recorded in heaven.

Nazareth church youth chairperson Sphiwe Nzuza, said the mountain service is one of the most important occasions in the church calender and every church member is expected to visit the ‘holy land’.

The church’s founder, Inkosi Isaiah Shembe, is said to have received the Holy Spirit at Nhlangakazi mountain nearby in Ndwedwe, however the fifth leader of the church, Mduduzi “Nyanzilwezulu” Shembe, changed the location to Canaan mountain.

A faction of this church still returns to the Nhlangakazi mountain. At its peak the church claimed more than a million members, though this seems to have been diluted by breakaways over the years.

Preacher Jabulisa Ngubane from the Etete temple described Shembe as an African prophet who was sent by God to Africa.

Shembe came to tell the people to praise the Lord, but without abandoning their traditions and culture.

“That is why we wear our traditional clothing and do the traditional dances to praise God,” said Ngubane.

The white stones around their temples which are commonly seen around the North Coast, symbolize the presence of God – it is holy ground and you are required to remove your shoes before you enter. There is no altar, no stained glass windows, but it is as much a place of worship as any other.

The purpose of the pilgrimage is to receive blessings, hear sermons and strengthen their faith. Nzuza said Shembe walks with them and along the journey he allows them to take an hour break every day.

“We do get tired but we were all excited about reaching the top and receive blessings from God. Should someone feel tired and decided to jump into a car, that is also not a problem. However we try to walk all the way,” said Nzuza.

The men lead the walk and it takes about three hours for them to enter through the gate at the foot of the mountain before women are permitted to enter, due to the sheer number of Shembe followers.

Everyone is allowed to walk, including children from 13 years of age. When they arrive, the pilgrims camp in tents or build small shacks called amadokodo.

“We arrived at the mountain around 10am and only got a chance to build my idokodo around 10pm. Even at that time there were people arriving,” said Nzuza.

The huge number of Shembe, all dressed in white, cover the mountain as far as the eye can see and make a spectacular sight.

During the pilgrimage no one is allowed to eat fermented food, including bread. Hawkers start up impromptu businesses to provide for the needs of the masses.

Ozwathini children take advantage of the festivities and sell wild flowers on the side of the road.

The presenter of the ‘Vuthelani icilongo show’ on Durban local radio station, Izwi LoMzansi, Sizwe Majola, said the flowers have a similar meaning to the stones.

“We leave the flowers at the entrance, midpoint and when we exit the mountain. We carry these flowers to show our love for God. This is done when you arrive at the mountain and when you leave the mountain. By being there, we believe that we are closer to God,” said Majola.

Worshippers kneel and pray every time they leave flowers on the ground.

The air rings with the praises of the people, singing as they walk – a people clearly united on a mission of devotion.

>>> Looking for a church? Check out our Churches on the North Coast feature. 

>>> Need some ideas for things to do? Check out Holiday Vibes.

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