BILL and I are staying home these holidays, playing tourist in our own area, and one of the home-based treats we are planning is a drive along the prettiest road the South Coast has to offer.
We will be following in the ancient footsteps of elephant when we visit Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve, inland from Port Shepstone, to drive through the pristine gorge that gives the reserve its name. Over the eons the unassuming Umzimkulwana River, a tributary of the more famous Umzimkhulu River, has patiently cut this deep, forest-filled, 24km gorge into the surrounding sandstone.
Before the scenic road through the gorge was built, the settlers on the surrounding Oribi Flats were cut off from the coastal town of Port Shepstone. In 1917, a footpath that followed an old elephant road through the gorge was widened to give them better access to town. A causeway over the river was built in 1920. It wasn’t until 1932, after much lobbying of government by the Oribi Flats farmers that the present tarred road was built.
It is a beautiful road. It winds its way through pristine indigenous forest, across the river via the low-level bridge then up again out of the gorge to the grassy plains beyond. In places, it narrows into a cool green tunnel, where samango monkeys play. Massive cliffs, the walls of the narrow gorge, tower over the bridge and nearby picnic area. Driving through the gorge is always such a treat but it is not the only attraction in the Oribi area. There is much to see and do in this scenic, inland spot.
The Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve has always been a popular birding destination and, as the twitching fraternity grows worldwide, it is now attracting more and more visitors. With about 250 species, including many ‘specials’ flying around and waiting to be ticked, it is one of the premier birding spots in the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast region. It is the best place in KwaZulu-Natal to see the Knysna woodpecker and it boasts a string of interesting endemics including Natal francolin, Knysna loerie, chorister robin and Barratt’s warbler. Perhaps the best known avian residents are the crowned eagles that once nested in a tree right next to the road.
The 850ha Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve was proclaimed in 1950 and is administered by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. We love spending a night or a weekend camping at its hutted camp, next to the start of the road through the gorge. It is a charmingly unsophisticated camp that offers gorgeous views of the gorge, tranquility and a wonderful natural experience. Facilities are basic but more than adequate.The camping sites and chalets are surrounded by mature trees and an attractive indigenous garden, which attract an amazing variety of birds. Many of the trees, shrubs and aloes are labelled, much to the delight of visiting tree-huggers.
The hutted camp is also the start of the reasonably easy 1km circular Baboon Walk. The first half is flat as it winds through flower-filled grasslands to a viewpoint above the gorge. When we spend a night in the reserve, it is our favourite sundowner spot. After the viewpoint the trail drops steeply into dense coastal forest. However, the descent is stepped and the climb out of the forest, back to camp, is gradual.
The Baboon Walk is just one of many other walks and hiking trails criss-crossing the reserve. Some are quite challenging. All are stunning. The Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve is also a botanical treasure house, filled with semi-deciduous forests, vegetated rocky outcrops and splendid, flower-filled grassland. More than 500 plant species have been identified there.
The now well established private game reserve, Lake Eland, not far from the Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve, has really accelerated the growth of tourism in the Oribi area. It also offers excellent birding but it is the eco-adventure activities that have really put this game reserve and, as a spin-off, the whole Oribi area, on the tourist map. As well as its famous suspension bridge across the gorge it now offers an incredible zip line that is proving very popular. With no dangerous animal residents the reserve also caters for strollers, hikers, flower people and the adherents of the growing sport of mountain biking. It offers a number of accommodation options including delightful and well-appointed waterfront log cabins and a comfortable camping area.
Oribi Gorge has the distinction of being home to a breeding colony of Cape vultures and these endangered birds are carefully monitored by Oribi farmer, Mike Neethling. He maintains a vulture restaurant near his farm and, from time to time offers nature lovers fascinating talks on vultures at the restaurant site. Recently the local birding club, Birdlife Trogons, built a vulture hide overlooking the colony’s home. Birders can contact project co-ordinator Andy Ruffle at 039 6950829 to book a visit to this popular eco-tourism facility.
Another incredibly successful tourism enterprise that has sprung up there is the Leopard Rock Restaurant overlooking the magnificent Umzimkulu River Gorge, the area’s other gorge. It is amazing how many day trippers this scenically situated little spot has attracted to the Oribi area.
The old Oribi Gorge Hotel also plays a role in bringing more visitors to the area. It was completely revamped a few years ago and, along with it view sites over the gorge, now offers a gorge swing and other ‘Wild Five’ eco-adventure activities. An attractive guest farm, a luxury spa and other accommodation are now also helping to grow this dynamic inland South Coast tourism industry.
So, when the sun is too hot and the beaches, too crowded, why not head for the Oribi hills and explore this lovely area.
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