Denim, Femininity and Deep Winter Fashion

Fashion this winter is anything but modest.

Say cheers to the usual layering and coverups, because nothing about this season shies away from a bit of leg, a flash of a different kind of cleavage or a glimpse of knickers.

It is a season of silhouette architecture and contrasts. The kind of fashion dichotomy that pairs oversized coats with sheer dresses with preppy college retro is the mainstay.

Ashwin Daniels, head buyer at fashion house The Fix, believes this winter’s wardrobe is having a moment of reinvention.

“We are seeing a big return to denim,” he said. “But it is not just jeans anymore. It is denim in all forms. Dresses, jackets, co-ords, and there is a cleaner, smarter look to it this time around.” 

Daniels said that the denim palette has also moved into deeper colours. Indigo and raw washes have shelved the flat blacks and faded blues of previous seasons.

“It is a smarter, more dressed-up take on denim,” he said. “You can wear these pieces from day to night without changing the look too much.”

Barrel leg is the new go-to

The barrel leg is the new go-to fashion trouser.

It is less slouchy than the boyfriend jean, not quite as rigid as the mom jean, and avoids the wide leg’s excess, he said.

“It is versatile, you can wear it with an oversized hoodie and sneakers, or you can pair it with a structured denim corset, heeled boots, and a big bag. That is the power of it. One item, two completely different moods.”

The pleated mini, with a rebellious raw hem, remains a youth favourite. On the other end of the closet, longer maxis offer a more modest option that can still be styled up or down.

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Daniels also noted the preppy, heritage sport trend that’s already landed in fashion this season. It’s a soupcon of nostalgic Ivy League aesthetics.

He said it pairs with cropped or oversized cardigans with pleated miniskirts, frilly socks and retro sneakers.

“It has got that collegiate charm, but reworked,” he said. “Think Miu Miu’s catwalk influence. The dominant colours are burgundy, pale blue, and that muted, chalkboard grey.”

Not a season for conservative dressing

But winter’s real disruption lies in how fashion is treating skin.

This is not a season to dress conservatively. It is a season of body confidence. Cleavage is not just back, it is celebrated. But this time around, it is not about push-up bras and plunging necklines.

It is about soft draping, sheer layering, and construction that highlights shape rather than hides it.

“This is not in your face,” Daniels said. “It is more subtle. It is part of a bigger trend we are calling thrifted, which is ultra-feminine and romantic. There is a resurgence of soft fabrics like chiffons, ruffles, and sheer pieces.

“Dresses that skim rather than cling. We are seeing a return to that softness, and a big part of that is Gen Z pushing back against years of genderless fashion.”

Daniels said the hyper-feminine look pushback was inevitable in the fashion cycle.

“There has been such a strong movement toward oversized, gender fluid dressing. This is the natural response to that trend. It is about owning the body again, dressing it with intention, and enjoying the play between structure and lightness.”

Durban-based designer Maxine Muller of fashion label Girl On Your Mind said this season is forcing the fashion industry to rethink how fashion relates to form.

“As a designer focused on celebrating the female form, the rise of breast cleavage in 2025 presents an exciting evolution,” she said.

“It is not just about showing skin. It is about framing the body in a new way. Whether it is through architectural V necklines, extreme hip cutouts, or sheer fabrics that create the illusion of a second skin.”

Boundary-breaking changes

Muller also noted the growing acceptance of bum cleavage in high fashion as a boundary-breaking change.

“Ultra-low backs and silhouettes that reveal the thong line are redefining how we think about tailoring. These are not accidents. They are deliberate design decisions that place the body at the centre of the garment.”

She shared the way streetwear is adapting these ideas.

“We are seeing braless tailoring, sheer layering and a move toward body confidence in everyday fashion. It is no longer just for the runway. It is about how women are choosing to express power, sensuality and self-assurance in their daily lives.”

Daniels said that winter’s fashion boldness will carry through into early spring.

“We will see more sheer fabrics, more visible skin, but in light, airy ways. The Chloe influence continues. There are ruffled maxi dresses, worn with oversized coats, pieces that float and pieces that ground. That contrast is key. This season is not just about what women wear, but how they want to be seen.”

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