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A tour of Durban’s dark whaling past

The former Durban whaling station is in a restricted military area in the Bluff

Dressed in sneakers and armed with Instagram, 120 curious Durbanites met on the steps of the Durban City Hall on Saturday, ready to get into the bus and trek to the restricted military area on the south side of the Bluff to visit the city’s former whaling station.

With the aim to explore Durban’s hidden treasures and share the stories that make up the city’s history, BESETdurban creates exclusive tours around the city to forgotten places and in this case, forbidden areas.

Established in 1908, the whaling station at the foot of the south pier was started by Norwegians – the leaders in the whaling industry at the time who pioneered a more efficient way of catching and processing whales.

Left overs of the WWII gun battlements on the beach on the other side of the Bluff, which is now home to some squatters…
…and their cats. This ginger sir was just woken up from his cat nap by all the curious  walkers exploring the forbidden territory on the Bluff.

A highlight of the tour was to have the former factory manager of the whaling station, Peter Froude share his memories and anecdotes about the once massively successful industry.

Peter Froude worked at the whaling station for 17 years. He started off doing his vac work while he was still a student of chemistry and later became the factory manager, where he worked until the station was closed down in 1975.

Froude said the whaling station was a huge set up and extremely profitable in the 1950’s.

“Union Whaling was probably one of the biggest and most sophisticated whaling stations in the world. The factory was about a kilometre long and employed well over 1000 people on its heyday,” said Froude, who was one of nine chemists working there.

The whale catchers, who were the princes of the industry and were paid extremely well, went out to sea at about 2am along the migration route of the whales, which passes our coastline during winter. At day break, two spotter planes flew out to sea to check where the whales were and alerted the boats. The catchers used massive, metal harpoon guns loaded with explosives to shoot the whales. The dead whales were pumped full of compressed air so that they would float and could be towed back to land. It would take up to 11 hours for the catchers to bring the whales to the station.
The whaling station could handle 40-50 whales per day, which were brought in at this slipway at the harbour entrance. There were hoards of sharks around the slipway, eating what they could of the dead whales who were dragged out.
The whales were taken to the whaling station by train on these tracks curling around the Bluff.

Froude said the entire whale was processed at the station, nothing went to waste.

“About 26 products were made using various parts of the whales: blubber was turned into oil and used in soap, margarine and even cooking fat; sperm oil (from sperm whales) was used in lubricants for machinery, in candles and pharmaceuticals; bone and protein meal went into animal feed and the good meat was frozen.

“In Japan, whale meat is still very popular and extremely expensive.”

Another rather disgusting but incredibly lucrative byproduct of whaling was Ambergis.

“Sometimes sperm whales have this intestinal blockage made up of bits like squid beaks which they secrete after a while.

“This Ambergis is worth a fortune and is used in high-end perfumes as it helps to make the fragrance last longer.”

A sperm whale being taken to the whaling station. Sperm whales can weigh up to 45 tons and are extremely good divers, hunting in the deep water for squid and the like.

While whaling was a roaring business, it did start slowing down in the 1970’s.

“There were various issues that led to the shut down of the station, one being that the residents were upset about the smell.

“The main reason, however, was the international condemnation of whaling, as the world had woken up to the fact that whales were being depleted,” said Froude.

Watch BESETdurban’s Facebook live video below to hear Peter Froude tell the tale of the end of the whaling station.

https://www.facebook.com/besetdurban/videos/2041455639416721/

The abandoned area will soon be brought back to life with plans to build a demo desalination plant, funded by the Japanese government.

Sydney Masha is a civil engineer working at the current sewage treatment plant on the site of the former whaling station. The plant treats about 77 million litres of sewage a day, coming from Durban. Masha will be involved in the upcoming demo desalination plant to be built and funded by the Japanese government costing an estimated R600 million.
The tour ended with one more stop, where the explorers climbed and crawled around the massive canon sitting on top of the bluff, which is quietly rusting away and home to many a green mamba.

To get notified about the next BESETdurban tour, sign up here and wait for that magic mail.

 

The BESETdurban whaling station tour took 120 people to the restricted military area in the Bluff next to the harbour entrance. Photo: BESETdurban

 

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