WATCH: Designer Sanele Thabethe is taking House of Sass to the world

As South African designers continue taking over the global fashion stage, designer Sanele “Sasa” Thabethe – founder of House of Sass – is building her clothing line from her mother’s living room, a home she jokingly describes as a “slave shop” because of multiple business being run in all its corners.

The mastermind behind the many glamorous outfits’ celebrities have been seen in had no idea her curiosity about creating and designing at just the age of six would have led her to this. The fashion designer defines herself as a creative, first, and a very artsy person.

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VIDEO: In conversation with Sanele Thabethe

Thabethe, 28, said her interests and love to make clothes all came about at a young age and although it may sound like “everybody’s story”, it started with making clothes for her Barbie dolls.

“At the moment, I’m working for Thabooty’s Underwear & Shapewear, which is my sister’s brand. I am the senior manager, buyer, creative director and digital marketer, but I am a fashion designer first,” she says.

“I used to make clothes for my Barbies and eventually tried making clothes for someone.

“In the beginning I did not have a sewing machine, so I would literally stitch by hand. I would take my sister’s clothes, undo them, and turn them into something else, and hand-stitch everything.

“And so, for a while, I knew I wanted to be a part of that industry. It’s always been something that’s intriguing for me.”

Thabethe’s designing journey

As soon as she finished high school, Thabethe started her designing journey at the School of Fashion, formerly known as Lisof, for about six months then went on to Villioti Fashion Institute in 2018, where she graduated.

House of Sass is a couture house that encompasses the epitome of art and individualism through clothing.

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“The most important was putting House of Sass out there because if people don’t know that you make these things, who’s going to buy from you? So I made sure I’m consistently present on social media.”

Competing in a saturated market may not be the easiest task and Thabethe said that one of her major struggles was trying to find her very own target market. The fashion industry was considered oversaturated.

It has seen a rapid increase in the number of brands, designers, and retailers in recent years, which has led to intense competition and pressure to stand out in a crowded market.

Many concerns raised included sustainability, price pressure, quality and consumer fatigue. Thabethe said she at times felt as if her target market was not in South Africa.

“I am a very avant-garde designer so it is very challenging to the eye. I do not like the boring Cinderella dress.

“I want to challenge your eye a little and I want it to be wearable art, but a lot of people are not able to come to terms with that,” she says.

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With House of Sass up and running for a few years now, Thabethe has worked with local celebrities including her sister Thando Thabethe, Khanyi Mbau, Thuso Mbedu, and Zanele Potelwa.

She has also designed swimwear for Miss SA 2022 under Thabooty’s Underwear & Shapewear.

“Designing for these people has meant everything. Making something and seeing it worn by somebody and it’s actually looking nice is the most rewarding part of it. At times one goes through something I like to call doubt hour, but you try to push through that. I end up surprising myself once it’s done, like wow, I actually did that.”

‘Mad house’

Thabethe has her design studio set up in her home and just a few metres apart, her mother Sibongile Thabethe has her own food business, B’s Kitchen.

“I call it a mad house and slave shop because even my little cousin is running her own braiding thing,” she laughs.

“It gets really crazy with all of us running up and down but it works because we feed off each other’s work ethic and energy. You get a push from seeing someone else working.”

What does she want to achieve for House of Sass?

“I want to establish an online store so that everything is easily accessible. I’d like to establish a ready-to-wear collection as at the moment it’s custom-made only. Also, self-open a store overseas. I’m still not sure where but I have a couple of places I’m thinking of.

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“I see House of Sass being worn by everyone. I do not want it to be limited. It must be something for everyone. I want it to be global and I want it to be a household name,” she says.

In terms of balancing and resting, Thabethe said one only rests when they are done.

“I think a lot of fashion designers know this. There’s no taking breaks because you just don’t have the time to,” she says.

Thabethe says what inspired her was the opportunity to be grateful all the time.

“I do not want to wake up and start thinking about my problems. With how hectic life can become, I try to find what my purpose is here and if I am truly within my creative element.

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“So that’s what drives me every single day. “It is not to be successful within my craft – it’s just to be great at it and be able to share it with as many people as possible,” she says.

– lungas@citizen.co.za