AN alumna of Vega School at uMhlanga and member of the team at one of South Africa’s first eco-friendly denim laundries says the country’s denim sector must move beyond water-saving innovations to achieve true sustainability.

Milan Comley, who graduated from Vega School at uMhlanga and holds an IIE Bachelor of Business Administration, is part of the team at TruBlue. She said while water recycling technologies are important, the industry remains largely linear.

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“One of the biggest gaps is true circularity. Garments are still produced, worn, and discarded. We need the ability to take used denim and convert it back into raw material locally so it can re-enter the production cycle,” she said.

TruBlue is reported to recycle up to 80% of its water, but Comley said scaling such solutions across the sector remains challenging.

“Cost is definitely a key barrier. Implementing water recycling systems requires significant upfront investment, and not all manufacturers can adopt and maintain that at scale. It’s also high maintenance and requires technical skill,” she said.

She added that infrastructure and integration into existing processes further complicate adoption.
On sustainability claims in fashion, Comley cautioned consumers to look beyond labels.

“Consumers should look at whether a brand is transparent about its supply chain and processes. Truly sustainable brands are consistent, transparent and honest about the fact that sustainability is a journey,” she said, adding that supporting local manufacturing is also critical.

Comley said government could play a stronger role by adopting international best practices.

“South Africa can take learnings from European governments’ responses to ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) and implement them locally over time,” she said.

Despite concerns about cost, she said eco-friendly denim can compete in price-sensitive markets.

“When we introduced TruBlue, we didn’t increase prices. It was a long-term investment to future-proof manufacturing in a water-scarce country,” she said.

She highlighted water and chemical use, overproduction, and global supply chains as some of the most overlooked environmental impacts in clothing production.

“Excess stock often ends up discounted or in landfill. We are working with retailers to forecast more accurately and build IT capabilities to eliminate overproduction,” she said.

Balancing sustainability and profitability remains a challenge, requiring strong systems and productivity to reduce waste, she added.

Comley said biodegradable materials and packaging are among the most promising innovations, alongside developments in biodegradable denim.

She also pointed to Africa’s potential to lead globally through skilled labour and responsible production.

“Africa has an opportunity to position itself as a reliable, high-quality manufacturing partner, which can drive exports and support economic growth,” she said.

Her advice to consumers is to buy local.

“It reduces reliance on carbon-intensive supply chains and supports jobs, while encouraging more conscious purchasing.”

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