As Lekker as it gets: You may not stay more than two nights

Wallowing in the hot-water tub with a bottle of Bosman Family Vineyards’ cabernet sauvignon at my elbow, watching the Indian Ocean rolling in, it’s hard to think that 40 years ago I’d be ducking every time a missile passed overhead.

Or that 10 years later I’d have to wrap a towel around my waist to spare blushes as former president FW de Klerk, a younger Cyril Ramaphosa and other prominent politicians of the time passed me coming up from the beach to discuss SA’s constitutional future.

And are those the ghosts of army generals skulking in shame in the fynbos after excoriation for their roles in township and other massacres that I see?

The property that is currently Lekkerwater Beach Lodge in the De Hoop Nature Reserve outside Bredasdorp in the Western Cape Overberg is alive with the history of South Africa during its transition from apartheid to democracy, says Natural Selection founder member Colin Bell.

Lekkerwater (www.naturalselection.travel) became part of the Natural Selection portfolio of wild, untouched places in 2013 and the lodge opened in 2018.

It began life as a fishing shack in the 1930s before it was expropriated by government half a century later for use as a missile testing ground.

Weapons-builder Denel had no further use for it in the late ’80s and ceded it to CapeNature to become a nature reserve.

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From presidential retreat to wild escape

“Lekkerwater was set aside in 1990 to become then-president De Klerk’s private property where he could relax – a few wealthy businessmen built him a house – but, more importantly, a place where he could caucus with parties away from the public eye,” Bell says.

“It reverted to CapeNature when De Klerk became vice-president under Nelson Mandela.”

It was realised post-1994 that SANParks (the country’s national parks) would have to rely on a much smaller slice of the fiscus as reconstruction projects took preference and a new funding model was launched.

The three flagship parks – Kruger, Addo Elephant and Table Mountain – could not wholly underwrite themselves or the other reserves and a system of concessions was launched whereby choice areas within parks were put out to free tender to the private sector.

Concessions to build facilities and operate exclusive activities were granted, with a percentage of turnover, as well as an annual rental, going to SANParks to make up the budget shortfall. The model worked well and it devolved to smaller and provincial reserves.

“The concession for this reserve was granted to the De Hoop Collection,” says Bell, “and it was while on a helicopter flight over [Lekkerwater] with one of the owners that I became interested. We landed, I made CapeNature an offer and it was accepted.

“The original deal was that Natural Selection would take over De Klerk’s rather simple old thatched house and upgrade it for sole use by parties interested in its history and the beautiful natural environment.”

However, an electrical storm and veld fire a few days before the contract was signed saw the property razed. Natural Selection had inherited a pile of rubble.

“We had to build a new lodge within the exact footprint of the previous property.”

The lodge features seven standalone rooms and whereas there would usually be 20m–25m between them to ensure privacy, these are much closer together.

“The advantage is that the crashing waves ensure you can’t hear your neighbours,” says Bell. I slept with the sliding door open and the sound of the ocean was deliciously loud.

Located in a remote part of the Western Cape, Lekkerwater is not for everybody. If you expect rose petals in your bath or spend your days sipping cocktails around the pool as you would in a resort, it will not be for you.

It is the only place I know where there are stipulated arrivals at 2pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays only. Duration of stay is limited to two nights.

“Everybody arrives at the car park and is transported 6km over the mountain by Landcruiser to the lodge together, sharing the experience for the first time. A feeling of camaraderie is quickly established,” he maintains.

“Guests become part of an unfolding story.”

Where every tide tells a tale

The greatest story told at Lekkerwater is what happens in the area between low and high tides… the inter-tidal zone.

The first night at dinner – everyone dined together – we were introduced to marine guide Tim Wells who told us what time low tide would occur the following morning and by when we should finish breakfast and be ready to head down to the beach.

We would be issued with diving “booties” if we didn’t have sturdy sandals, he said, because the rocks were extremely sharp.

Tim, who grew up outside Windhoek in Namibia, completed his BSc in applied biology, ecology and evolution at the University of Cape Town.

“I particularly enjoy the little things in nature. I worked for a very long time for a non-profit organisation in Cape Town that would show kids the life of rock-pools and take them snorkelling as well. I can spend hours in the macro-world… it keeps me sane.”

Tim admits to not being a “conventional” guide – more an academic with a penchant for storytelling.

While the inter-tidal zone is spectacularly beautiful with gorgeous pools teeming with whelks, anemones, molluscs, crabs and starfish, the most remarkable thing we learned was that every human in the world has been to De Hoop before.

“There was a time in pre-history when mankind was reduced to about 300 families and they all lived down the beach from here in the Blombos Caves. From here they migrated northwards…”

We were uniformly spellbound; young and old, male and female, South African and American.

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