Traditional food is about more than what is on the plate, says Nosiviwe Ntshona Mahungu. It’s a taste of home and a way of staying connected to the Xhosa traditions she grew up with in Motherwell, Gqeberha.

Now living in Johannesburg and married to a Tsonga man, Mahungu still holds on to the food and traditions that connect her to her heritage.

Traditional favourites such as umngqusho (slow-cooked samp and sugar beans), umvubo or umphokoqo (a crumbly maize meal porridge mixed with sour milk, or amasi), isonka (steamed bread) and various meat dishes could be found on the family table.

But meals were about much more than filling hungry stomachs. They were a time for family to gather, share stories and enjoy being together.

Among the tastes that have stayed with Mahungu over the years, few are as comforting as amasi, a thick, fermented sour milk with a distinct sour and tangy flavour, somewhat similar to plain yoghurt.

“I love how simple it is, yet how much comfort and nostalgia it carries,” she says.

Its distinctive taste takes her straight back to childhood and the familiar rhythm of family meals.

Some of her earliest memories are of enjoying amasi with maize meal as part of lunch or supper. In her home, this combination was known as umphokoqo or umvubo.

Leaving a portion in the fridge to enjoy cold the next morning was a small childhood indulgence, but the memory has stayed with her.

A dish connecting generations

Today, she still loves amasi with umphokoqo, umvubo orbrown bread because the simple meal tastes like home.

Watching her mother prepare meals taught Mahungu that recipes carry stories across generations. There is something comforting in knowing that a meal shared today connects back to those before her, and keeping traditional dishes on the table ensures those connections stay alive.

As food trends change and new dishes find their way into our kitchens, she believes foods such as amasi deserve to be remembered, prepared and enjoyed by younger generations.

“Traditional food carries history, identity, family traditions and memories,” she says.

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