St Petersburg’s serene splendour belies a nation at war

The captivating sense of calmness, the throngs of people milling about and the huge traffic volumes throughout St Petersburg belies the reality that Russia is in a state of war.

St Petersburg is a sprawling cosmopolitan city. It is regarded as the mecca of Russia’s culture and heritage, an epicentre of values as well as a haven of Russia’s rich history.

The city of Peter the Great

The identity of being Russian can be easily located to a way of life in the majestic St Petersburg, sometimes referred to affectionately as “St P”.

Museums and art galleries decorate the city founded by Peter the Great in the 17th century.

Born in Moscow in 1672, Peter the Great was first the Tsar of Russia and later became Russia’s first Emperor from 1721 until his death in 1725, aged only 52 years and four months.

His statue riding a horse overlooks the majestic Neva River around which St Petersburg is built. The architecture of the multi-storey buildings is clearly influenced by two factors – war and weather.

Weather extremes and river life shape the urban experience

Perimeter walls are as wide as nearly one metre. Ferocious winter weather, particularly around January to March, can see temperatures dropping to as low as -35°C.

However, in the present summer season, dozens of boats travel with the Neva River’s current in one direction, forming a beautiful flotilla.

At times they travel pretty close to each other ferrying holiday makers from one end to the other.

From Leningrad to modern St P: a city steeped in legacy and economics

The metropolis was previously known as Leningrad until it was renamed back to its original name in modernity.

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It plays host to the annual St Petersburg International Economic Forum (SPIEF), Russia’s flagship trade and investment mega event.

This year, up to 24 000 delegates from 144 countries participated in SPIEF, signing deals to the tune of 6.3 trillion roubles (about R1.4 trillion), according to the organisers.

South Africa’s delegation was led by Deputy President Paul Mashatile, accompanied by eight ministers and business leaders.

Mashatile delivered a public lecture at St Petersburg State University, the alma mater of legendary Russian leader Lenin, as well as the incumbent, President Vladimir Putin.

Sacred scars

St Petersburg also has a proud history of resistance. At its centre in Isak Square lies the famous Cathedral of St Isaac.

The majestic cathedral is worshipped for surviving 148 bombs fired by Hitler’s Nazi Germany’s army that attacked during WWII from 1939-1945.

Some of the cathedral’s huge pillars bear evidence of the scars from the bomb attacks. The Russian authorities have elected to leave the pillars unrepaired as a symbol and constant reminder of the spirit of resilience.

A law-abiding city

Standing in front of the cathedral and facing the nearby Presidential Library, hundreds of vehicles can be seen throughout the six-lane wide roads.

Men, women and children chill in the leafy parks. Everything looks oh so plush. Clearly-marked police vehicles incessantly drive past at high speed, with their siren blaring.

At various intersections, uniformed traffic officers assist with traffic controls. Noticeably, there is no jay-walking. Pedestrians cross the roads only at the appropriate spots.

The vivid respect for the law and for one another is hard to miss. Beneath the statue of Peter the Great tourists, by a large margin Russians, take turns taking photographs.

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Leisure and legacy on the water

You simply cannot claim to have visited St P without posing for pictures with the founder of the city.

And then, there’s the English Embankment. It runs along the Neva River, which I found to be too large to be described as a river. Instead, it looks more like a lake.

Several canals spring from various spots to pour their waters into the Neva River, which itself runs for a total of 392km to neighbouring Finland, recently a new Nato member.

Along the English Embankment tourists have fun. Ice creams, cold drinks, lovers and friends alike all mingle harmoniously to share in the enjoyment of St P.

The midnight marvel of Palace Bridge

On the horizon, the green-painted Palace Bridge serves to assist vehicles and pedestrians to cross from either side to the other. The bridge is famous for the magic it performs every day at midnight.

The heavy steel structure that makes up the Palace Bridge separates in the middle. Slowly, one half moves to the left and other half to the right.

It is an incredible show to watch. It is hard not to scream in awe of the magic. The practice is a carryover from an old tradition, when the tallest ships had to be accommodated to pass through the bridge.

Although the ships no longer exist, St Petersburg has retained the practice, which is a hugely popular attraction for locals and visitors alike.

There was a musical concert for the 20 000-plus delegates to SPIEF. It took place at Palace Square, in front of Hermitage Museum.

The singing, dance and camaraderie once again triggered in me the lingering question – is Russia at war?

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