With 150 farms, you are spoilt for choice.
There are 150 wine farms in Stellenbosch and that’s not to mention other attractions, so short of having endless days to roam around and indulge in the good grape, how does one negotiate a short stay in Stellies that will do wine farms justice but still give you time to explore the town?
Stellenbosch is South Africa’s second oldest town, founded in 1679 by Governor Simon van der Stel. It is known for its oak-lined streets, Cape Dutch architecture, historic buildings and university. It is home to some of the finest wine estates and restaurants in the country.
It is the centre of wine tourism in the country because, while Worcester has the most land under vine, Stellies has the most wine farms in the area – more than Paarl, Franschhoek or Constantia. It came to be a major wine-producing region thanks to Huguenot refugees coming from France in the 17th Century. The region is now renowned for its world-class red and white wines and for being the birthplace of Pinotage.
Wine estates worth visiting
I recently visited Stellenbosch with my better-half, a qualified tour guide wanting to specialise in wine tourism. His research had me visiting dozens of wine estates in one day until my head was swimming with an information-overload, sadly not wine, but I did pick some winners:
- Yonder Hill belongs to Daniel Naude who is an internationally recognised and celebrated photographer. He’s probably most famous for photographing cows and he and president Cyril Ramaphosa are in cahoots breeding Ankole cattle. His farm specialises in red wine, it’s got a laidback vibe, is not pretentious or hectically expensive, and you get to see these splendid cows with huge horns when you visit his wine farm.
- Uva Mira wine farm is the highest of them all in Stellenbosch, some 620m above sea level. The pièce de résistance here are the views of the Helderberg mountains and on a clear day you can see as far as Table Mountain and False Bay. The wines grow on different slopes which gives some more sun, others more of a sea breeze, resulting in a range of wines from a Chardonnay to a Bordeaux blend.
- Ernie Els wine farm has panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the West – and the Helderberg mountains to the East. This golfer cares about his wines, but it’s also homely and friendly here with an expansive tasting-room, big restaurant and hearty-type food. It’s a spot where locals meet up on weekends just chilling on the huge verandah with forever views. You can hit a golf ball here from a tee-off right in front of the restaurant area. Book if you plan on eating here because it gets busy. Their rustic fries are as good as chips get.
- Rust en Vrede was the first wine farm in Stellenbosch to focus on red varietals and it has a rich history of 300 years of winemaking. The history of the place goes back to governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel, and the Cape Dutch buildings are dated from 1789 and have National Monument status.
- Dornier Wine Estate is at the foot of Stellenbosch Mountain. The focus here is on red and white wines. What sets this farm apart is that it’s particularly friendly and offers a Classic Wine Tasting of six wines for R95 per person, which is a good deal.
- DeMorgenzon slopes are nearly 400m above sea level with vistas of Cape Town, Table Mountain, Cape Point, Cape Hangklip, the Hottentots Holland mountains, Helderberg and Simonsberg with the ocean as a backdrop. Whether you have wine here or not, it’s a gorgeous spot to visit. The winemakers here believe grapes grow better if they are exposed to music so since 2009, Baroque and early classical music is played to the vines, day and night.
Costs and considerations
Wine tastings aren’t cheap like they used to be. Gone are the days when wine farms doled out free tastings in the hope of luring sales. The average cost of a tasting is in the region of R150 and that’s without so much as an olive. You can bank on pricey meals as well. A couple of the wine farms told us their cellar prices are the same price as in a bottle store and my guide checks this out. On the whole it seems to be the case.
Where to stay? There are dozens of options in Stellies, but my choice would be the elegant Evergreen Manor & Spa because it’s located in the historical core of Stellenbosch just opposite the Botanical Gardens. Built in 1904, Evergreen Manor & Spa offers gracious living and old-world charm combined with every modern convenience.
Its spacious guest rooms are individually decorated with fine period and antique furnishings and comprise 15 rooms each with its own character and luxury touches like underfloor heating.
From this lovely base, only a couple minutes’ walk to the centre of town, you can explore art galleries and museums, admire the historical buildings, visit the Botanical Gardens. Then there’s the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden close to Evergreen Manor.
Lewis is a South African sculptor internationally known for his powerful and dynamic bronze sculptures of animals and mythical creatures. The manicured and yet rugged garden has 4km of wilderness paths to meander. Smell the fynbos and behold more than 60 Dylan Lewis sculptures.
There are fabulous walks and cycle routes in the area while golf enthusiasts will find themselves in heaven with at least three courses in the immediate area.
Food, tours and adventures
There are dozens of restaurants to choose from in the area, from casual joints the students frequent to fancier dining. The Fat Butcher is a celebration of meat and excellent service. Not cheap, but they do a sirloin on the bone that’s big enough to feed two people – and there are vegan options. Then there’s Decameron in Plein Street for authentic Italian cuisine, but be sure to book.
Head for the Adventure Shop based in Stellenbosch where you can find a wine guide, bikes and e-bike tours, choose a walk. Best of all is the Vine Hopper – a hop-on hop-off service which takes visitors to either the Southern or Northern wine estates so you can drink and not drive.
The Adventure Shop and Evergreen Manor & Spa are part of Cape Country Routes (CCR) South Africa, which is a leading group of owner-operated and managed accommodation and activity establishments comprised of more than 20 privately owned hotels, lodges and guest houses located on the scenic and historic routes in the Western and Eastern Cape.
These are carefully selected for their character and charm, as well as offering good accommodation and activities to suit budgets. [email protected]
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