Fashion designer David Tlale said he doesn’t think Gayton McKenzie understands the complexities of the clothing and textile industry.
Charity begins at home, they say.
However, for Minister of Sports, Arts and Culture Gayton McKenzie, it began in Singapore when he met with the bosses of the Chinese global e-commerce platform specialising in fast fashion, Shein.
Gayton McKenzie defends Shein meeting
The rambunctious minister has defended this “engagement”, saying Shein can’t be stopped from doing business in the country.
“We can’t stop Shein from doing business in SA,” said McKenzie after there was uproar from the fashion industry.
“We can agitate and negotiate for greater participation of the local fashion industry. We met them precisely for that reason. You guys think staying angry at companies is a solution? There is value in collaboration.”
This is so infuriating in so many levels. If Minister @GaytonMcK and his department really cared about the LOCAL FASHION INDUSTRY, then they would’ve done their research and know that any endorsement to SHEIN is no good for local fashion industry. https://t.co/sNRf62bY8F
— Fashion MOEments (@FashionMOEments) October 7, 2025
Speaking to The Citizen following McKenzie’s controversial meeting with Shein, renowned and seasoned fashion designer David Tlale said he doesn’t think the minister understands the complexities of the clothing and textile industry.
“How do you collaborate with someone from outside when you don’t understand what’s happening on the inside?” Tlale asked.
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Why Shein is problematic for local fashion
“He does not understand the value chain,” said Tlale.
The designer said the clothing and textile industry in South Africa is not taken seriously and only seen as a hobby.
“We are not a hobby. We are an industry…and I find it very big of the minister to engage with a Chinese manufacturer that we are complaining and fighting about, that is killing our industry,” said Tlale.
Earlier this year, Proudly South African led a march, which Tlale and other local designers were part of, to protest against the Chinese e-commerce giants.
Some of the placards that were hoisted on the day read ‘Shein and Temu [are] Fong Kong’ and ‘Local is lekker’.
During the march, Proudly SA submitted memorandums to the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition (DTIC) and the National Clothing Retail Federation (NCRF).
“The memorandums highlighted the negative impact of illicit trade on the fashion industry in South Africa and implored the authorities to step up efforts to work in concert to clamp down on counterfeit goods and illicit trade to save jobs,” CEO of Proudly SA, Eustace Mashimbye, told The Citizen.
We have written to the Chair of the Portfolio Committee on Trade, Industry and Competition to raise our concerns about Gayton Mackenzie’s claims of negotiating trade deals on behalf of South Africa with SHEIN.
— Sinawo Thambo (@Sinawo_Thambo) October 8, 2025
South Africa’s trade policy is not comparable to exchanging soap for… pic.twitter.com/WxQ7LcmQSr
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Study on Shein and Temu impact
Proudly SA commissioned a study through the Localisation Support Fund that addresses the Shein and Temu phenomenon.
The study estimated the impact of Shein and Temu on South Africa’s retail, clothing, textile, footwear and leather sector (R-CTFL).
It drew on previous research and industry-validated impact ratios conducted by the R-CTFL Masterplan in 2018.
To evaluate the direct impact on local manufacturing, the report utilised local sourcing data from 2020 to 2024, aggregated from the R-CTFL Masterplan.
The study revealed that in 2024, Shein and Temu account for approximately R7.3-billion in CTFL sales (3.6% of the total SA R-CTFL market, or 37.1% of the SA e-commerce R-CTFL market).
The opportunity cost, given current levels of local sourcing by South African retailers, is thus estimated to be approximately R960-million in lost SA CTFL manufacturing sales, accounting for roughly 2 818 CTFL manufacturing jobs and 5 282 R-CTFL jobs not materialising.
Mashimbye added that they have engaged various government entities, including relevant ministries and departments, in advocating for localisation as a key driver of economic growth and job creation.
In its recommendations, the study requests that the National Consumer Commission conduct an audit of online and offshore retail operations to ensure alignment with the Consumer Protection Act.
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An out-of-touch minister?
“Why doesn’t he take time to engage with us, to find out what are our issues, why are we not able to compete globally, instead of engaging with an international competitor, not just a competitor but someone who is volatile to the industry?” asked Tlale.
The designer said McKenzie’s move looks worse because he is a minister who is black and should have an understanding of the financial implications of such a move on disadvantaged communities.
We're on the expo floor at the Local Fashion Walk about to unpack the threads of time – the Evolution of local fashion with our esteemed local fashion designers. #BuyLocalSummit2025#ResilienceThroughLocalisation #BuyLocalToCreateJobs pic.twitter.com/WkRRAUHMfp
— Proudly South African (@ProudlySA) March 17, 2025
“What are you saying to the black child that is trying to build a brand out there in Vosloorus, out there in Eldorado Park, out there in Soweto, out there in Mitchells Plain?
“It is very disturbing and very alarming for a minister to be engaging international affairs, more than engaging with the local talent that is on the ground.”
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