Come fly the coop with Alicia to the tiny town of Leydsdorp

I am a sensation-seeking individual who values peak experiences. I am continually stunned at how many people never subscribe to the idea of exploring our own world.

They feel that it is for the rich or the retired. It is simply not true. In fact, it is in most motorcyclists’ budgets to explore our fantastic country, especially the beauty that directly surrounds us. The winter is here and like any good swallow or traveller, it’s time to discover warmer areas.

Our warmer region was Limpopo. I heard of the smallest city in South Africa. This city co-incidentally belongs to fellow Nelspruiters, Kobus and Kodri Smuts. I just had to go and see it for myself.

The city’s history

Eward Button and James Sutherland found gold in the mountain range they named after Sir Roderick Murchison, the British geologist, in 1870.

This discovery did not prove lucrative, but in 1888 the renowned prospector French Bob, who had discovered the Pioneer Reef near Barberton, found more gold in the range and this started a rush. Several mines were opened, thousands of claims were pegged and about 600 prospectors were active in the area.

The centre of excitement was French Bob. In 1890 this camp was selected by the government as the site for a town from which to administer the Murchison Range gold-mining fields.

Paul Kruger proclaimed Leydsdorp a city in October 1890. He needed to put his signature on a few important documents that were only allowed to be signed in a city. Leydsdorp grew rapidly into a conglomeration of shacks, pubs, hotels, stores and printing works which published The Leydsdorp Leader.

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This place eventually became a ghost town and closed down. Recently, the Nelspruiters developed the hotel and bar into a very warm, cosy, welcoming haven for every kind of traveller.

The old mines can be visited on guided tours arranged by Leydsdorp Hotel’s management.

Ninety meters off the road linking Leydsdorp to Gravelotte is a hollowed-out baobab tree which was fondly known as the Murchison Club, containing a makeshift counter over which drinks used to be served to thirsty gold-seekers. A dozen or so men could gather at a time inside the tree.

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Leydsdorp might be tiny, but it’s interesting

Our route to Leydsdorp had to be a challenging one. Many beautiful tar roads lead to Leydsdorp, but there is one specific gravel route that caught my attention. Let me tell you about it.

This journey starts at the beautiful town, Graskop. Go towards the new Graskop Gorge Lift, and enjoy the view and scenery there. You can even get your blood pumping at the Big Swing.

Continue down the swirly and twirly R533 towards the turn-off at 24°56’52.9″S 30°56’42.9″E. This is where the voices in your head mute and the thirst for adrenalin starts to sing! This little dirt road cuts the valley beneath the mighty mountains where God’s Window is nestled. The proud mountain towers next to this road and is visible through lush forests, exotic plants and rocks. Crispy fresh air is freely available.

Continue on this gravel road, through an intimidating river crossing, through mud pits where free shoe/boot baptisms are done into thick brown caramel mud, until you reach 24°45’43.8″S 30°58’31.9″E.

This is one of those places in your life where you must make a decision: 1. Are we going directly to Limpopo or 2. Are we going to stay on this adventure? We decided to go towards the tar road. Time was not on our side, and we were excited to get to Oom Paul Kruger’s city, Leydsdorp.

We continued through Casteel, a village filled with friendly people who enjoy motorcyclists who behave themselves, to the tar road at 24°43’33.2″S 31°01’06.4″E and enjoyed the road trip through Hoedspruit, Gravelotte to Leydsdorp.

Leydsdorp’s hotel, restaurant and bar is open and ready for business. Friendly laughing ladies welcome you there, the large snooker table calling for a challenge.

This quiet hotel has a rich history. Luckily the quality of the hotel has upgraded since the 1800s: The rooms have air-conditioning, DStv and are peaceful, the bar has a big-screen TV, and has all the necessary ice-cold beverages for a cool down. Ask the bar ladies about the trapdoor behind the counter!

The peace and quiet of Leydsdorp quickly had me in a corner and I started itching to do something. A sunset bike ride on the gravel roads between kudu and other game calmed me down and made me very thankful to be in the mighty city, Leydsdorp. Off course, that evening we had to braai at Oom Paul’s house.

Limpopo has a list of beautiful mountain passes, waiting for every biker to explore.

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Magoebaskloof

This pass climbs 446 vertical metres! It was rated one of the finest tar-road passes in South Africa. Reminiscent of a funfair ride, the series of twisting S-bends and hairpins on this pass between Tzaneen and Haenertsburg, offers plenty of thrills for motorcyclists and all the rest. This pass is also one of South Africa’s steepest.

“After the Anglo-Boer War, a new route down the Magoebaskloof Mountains was built close to a bridle path used by woodcutters through Woodbush Forest. Construction went well until workers downed tools in 1915, refusing to cut down what they called God’s trees. In the end, the route was altered to spare the trees.

It’s thought that Chief Mamphoku Makgoba, the powerful Tlou chief, was buried in the vicinity after he was defeated in 1895 and that his restless spirit still wanders the mountains around the pass, named after a corrupted version of his name” (Getaway Magazine).

George’s Valley Pass

The valley is named after George Deneys who designed the R528 that runs the length between Haenertsburg and Tzaneen. He was convinced he could design a better road to Tzaneen than the Magoesbaskloof Pass. With some knee-scraping cornering and super scenic views, this pass has a lot to offer. You can compare the two passes and choose your favorite.

Old Coach Road

This fantastic gravel mountain pass is hidden between the R528 and R36. This pass, with its perfectly cambered turns, awaits the adventurer. Not much skill is needed. It is even pillion-safe. To tell you the truth, I think a boxer-motor-powered motorcycle will be able to enjoy it!

A visit to Haenertsburg is compulsory. Riding around in these areas almost felt like home. These passes have a Sabie/Graskop-feel to them. The scenic beauty of the Haenertsburg area attracts many tourists. It is a favoured spot for cycling, biking and fishing. Sailing and other water sport take place on the nearby Ebenezer Dam.

I usually focus on getting to a destination. This time the plans included a very scenic route back. The return included the indescribable Abel Erasmus Pass.

Abel Erasmus Pass (R36)

This is one of my favourite mountain passes. Abel Erasmus was a successful farmer and civil servant born in February 1845. In February 1876 at the age of 31, he was elected to serve on the Lydenburg Council. Erasmus served in the 1870s as the peacekeeper in the Lowveld community. The public saw it a fitting way to give back to him by honoring his name along the peaceful pass.

If you haven’t ridden or driven it, you have not lived!

The Abel Erasmus pass is a tarred pass. It cuts through the Drakensberg Escarpment. This pass has a tunnel, which was named after a former prime minister, J.G. Strijdom, and was opened on May 8, 1959.

It has sensational views over the Blyde Canyon. The route follows a Voortrekker wagon track that was pioneered in the 1840s as they moved further into the interior of South Africa.

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Travelling back towards Graskop, you find the Three Rondavels view point and other spectacular spots overlooking the Blyde Canyon. Blyde Canyon is by many considered one of the largest canyons on earth, and it may be the largest green canyon, according to Wikipedia.

You would pass the Potholes, the deserted Bourke’s Luck Army Base, Lisbon Falls, Berlin Falls, God’s Window, and a few hidden waterfalls, on your way back to the warmer parts of the Lowveld.

We are privileged to live in one of the most beautiful places on earth. The more I explore the Lowveld and surrounds, the more I realise how blessed and fortunate we are to live here.

When you plan your exotic holiday, don’t forget that we are comfortably positioned in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Explore it, ride it, climb it, walk it, cycle it.