The menu covers a lot of ground, moving between Japanese, Italian and local South African influences.
An eatery in its own class, Sunsets and Mermaids in Umhlanga. Picture: Supplied
When times are tough, and the rands in your wallet squirm whenever you reach for a cent, dining out has to be worth every bite. Going somewhere to unwind means the maths must add up to good food, good service and a genuinely enjoyable experience.
In Umhlanga, just down the drag from the Radisson Hotel, the Village, as they call it, features a strip of restaurants and retail that reminds one of Melville, Yeoville in its heyday and bits of Parkhurst.
There’s a lot of choice, and in typical continental style, menus are displayed on sidewalks, waiters entice passers-by with easy conversation and the promise of a great meal.
In-between the noise, there’s a spot that’s as unassuming as it is, in fact, spectacularly fantastic. It’s called Sunsets and Mermaids, and it’s the place you’ll fall in love with deep-fried olives.
Their deep-fried olives, dressed to kill in an umami-crumbed coating with a tangy dip that’s so moreish, gluttony may no longer be considered a carnal sin.
You just want more
The menu covers a lot of ground, moving between Japanese, Italian and local South African influences.
There’s tapas that jump from jiaozi chicken dumplings with a soy, sesame and chilli dressing through to beef tataki served in a steamed bao bun, salsiccia and veal meatballs in a Napoli sauce, and deep-fried biltong paired with a ponzu dip.
There’s also a raw side to the offering, with tuna ceviche and oysters served in threes, sixes or by the dozen.
Sushi gets its own two-part chapter while mains run from char-grilled steaks finished with a French-style butter to a Spanish paella with chorizo and baby langoustines, a lobster roll on toasted brioche, and a surf ‘n turf that pairs beef fillet with langoustines.
The kitchen makes a point of its sourcing: the beef is free-range from the Midlands and the fish comes from local suppliers between the north coast and the Wild Coast area.
And because this is Durban, there’s a homemade-style lamb or prawn curry served with sambals and a choice of roti or basmati rice.
The Italian influence carries through the pasta and pizza sections, where the Mermaids Linguine serves steamed lobster in tomato, garlic and champagne, presented in the shell, and the Durban pizza tops 24-hour sourdough with butter chicken, dhania and poppadum.
The secret to a good pizza lies in the base, and Mermaids gets it right.
Everything we tried was great
Desserts stick to the familiar with lemon meringue pie, crème brûlée and a chocolate fondant.
The cocktail list is long on signature drinks, from a negroni sbagliato called the Siren’s Sunrise to the Shark Attack, a frozen tequila and blue curaçao mix served with edible glitter, alongside a wine list that stretches from Swartland chenin to French champagne.
But that’s the menu. Beyond those addictive olives, everything we tried arrived in generous portions.
The bao bun starter was substantial enough to pass for a light meal; the size of the meal makes for great light dining. Back to the pizza, because the tomato base is as yum as the crust and the toppings are not from the hand of a stingy chef, either.
Then, there’s the service. Blink, and someone attends to you. If your body language says I’m fine, nobody will approach you while taking your fork to your mouth.
That didn’t stop the host or any member of staff from checking in regularly without becoming intrusive. Waiting on patrons is an art, and at Mermaids and Sunsets, they seem to get it right. After all, it’s part of the experience and the very reason why tips are earned in the first place.
It’s hard to describe Sunsets and Mermaids adequately. It’s unpretentious but polished, equally suited to cocktails, a business dinner or a relaxed date night. Places like this don’t need gimmicks because they simply get the fundamentals right.
