Have a palatable adventure in a Taipei night market

Taipei is a city that takes a while to wake up, but when it does much of that hum of activity focuses around the Taiwan capital's numerous night markets.


With so many to choose from, it can take the eager tourist a couple of minutes to choose which one beckons to you. For us, it was Shilin Night Market. Partly, that was because it was one of the more popular tourist night markets, but mostly, it was because it was a quick hop, skip and a jump on Taipei’s fast, efficient metro system.

Commuters wait patiently for the next train to arrive at the Taipei Metro which connects most parts of the city and makes it easy for the adventurous traveller to get around. Picture: Kate Henry

Commuters wait patiently for the next train to arrive at the Taipei Metro which connects most parts of the city and makes it easy for the adventurous traveller to get around. Picture: Kate Henry

Spread thoughout a number of crowded alleys spanning several blocks, the Shilin Market’s collection of stores is enough to attract even less ardent shoppers. Want to get your pooch that bedazzled collar he’s probably never wanted? There’s a stall for that. Looking for a minion-shaped souvenir for that Despicable Me-obsessed friend back home? You’re in luck. Need some cakes for a wild bachelorette party (they come in shapes sure to make girls giggle?). You’ll definitely find that as well.

So it’s a flea market, you think. No: it’s far more than just the local, mangy collection of stalls that pops up every Saturday afternoon in the nearby church’s back yard. You name it, you can get it at the night market, but in truth it’s not just the nick-knacks and designer bags you should go there for. It’s the food.

When it comes to frog eggs, sometimes you just have to be brave and try them. Other times you run in the opposite direction. Picture: Kate Henry

When it comes to frog eggs, sometimes you just have to be brave and try them. Other times you run in the opposite direction. Picture: Kate Henry

The Taiwanese love their food and if you spend enough time in their country, you’ll love it too. Ultimately, you can’t really leave a night market without sampling some of the wares.

“Sometimes, no matter how good the food is in another country, you just want McDonalds,” a friend sagely pointed out.

Looking like a glop of, er, something in gravy, some foods just need to be tried. Picture: Kate Henry

Looking like a glop of, er, something in gravy, some foods just need to be tried. Picture: Kate Henry

Personally, I rarely have that urge even in my own country, but if this little piece of advice strikes a chord with you there are a couple of burger, pizza and pasta places you can go and be boring at.

I’m eyeballing the vegetable steam buns. A quick point, a flurry of Taiwanese New Dollars and I’m off, bun in packet as we continue to see the sights. Thirsty. There’s a stall that looks like it serves some kind of fruit juice. As the smiling man behind the counter pours it into a cup it occurs to me that eating that steamed bun might just have got a little more complicated. There aren’t many places to sit and eat in the night market unless you want to squat on the steps of the local temple, which we did later.

Eating on the go has been fine-tuned to an art in Taiwan. Drink goes into cup, cup goes into nifty little bag with handles. You stop to take a sip, then walk on, carrying your juice like your shopping as you munch on your vegetable steam bun. You’ve barely finish one course when something strange and delectable catches your eye. Before you know it you’re standing at the next stall trying to work out what they’re selling. If you’re lucky and your friend speaks Chinese, let them buy for you.

Yes, they sell burgers at the Shilin Night Market in Taipiei. Picture: Kate Henry

Yes, they sell burgers at the Shilin Night Market in Taipiei. Picture: Kate Henry

If you’re out of luck there, there’s still nothing to worry about. Pointing, gesturing and perhaps learning the words for “no meat” if you’re a vegetarian will get you what you want.

You like the glazed fruit on a stick, grilled corn on a stick or that strange potato-and-gravy-like substance (which comes in a bowl)? Or perhaps some stinky tofu? Hint: with tofu the stinkier the better, apparently, although the smell was normaly enough to drive us in the opposite direction. You can even try the frogs eggs, though at that point I got squeamish for the first time.

You can't leave the night market without trying the bubble tea. Just watch out for the tapioca balls. Picture: Kate Henry

You can’t leave the night market without trying the bubble tea. Just watch out for the tapioca balls. Picture: Kate Henry

To finish off the night, find the local bubble tea stall. Don’t pull a face – it’s delicious, complete with little tapioca balls sitting at the bottom of the drink. Also known as pearl milk tea, it’s a tea-based drink often mixed with fruit or milk. Just try not to choke when one of the balls shoots up the wide straw and hits the back of your throat.

Afraid you’ll not get all this down in one night? Well, with most night markets open until midnight, you’ll have plenty of time to try out all of the above.

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