Istanbul: The real millennium dome

The original structure on the spot it occupies was built nearly 1 500 years ago and the building has functioned as both a church and a mosque before its transformation into its current role as a museum. Also – like, duh – James Bond chased bad guys around it in Skyfall, dude.

Up close, first impressions are slightly muddied by the presence of a good deal of scaffolding – fair enough, you’ll likely concede, given that the stones and mortar used in the building’s construction have had everyone from the Romans to the Crusaders leaning up against them at some point.

EYESORE. Much of the museum is draped in construction material, as part of it is always undergoing important maintenance.

“It’s good. It’s solid, no?” says the guide, Hakan, slamming his open hand against the wall next to one of the entrance doors.

He continues to chatter knowledgeably as the tour party moves into an antechamber lined with mosaics and hung with heavy chandeliers. It’s hard to focus on his narrative though – once you catch your first glimpse of the interior of the church.

It’s just so breathlessly big. But once you’re inside, it’s the details that keep you engrossed. All around is architectural and artistic wonder – and if you take the time to focus on the points of finesse within the gargantuan edifice, you’ll be stupified as to the amount of effort and time that must have been invested in the construction.

As with all old buildings, there are signs of decay: gold leaf has peeled off the mosaics and stairs feature awkward channels where they’ve been worn down by the passage of millions of feet. And an imposing tower of scaffolding in the centre of the main floor means holiday snaps need to be carefully framed to maintain the perceived glamour of the place for armchair travellers back home.

MASSIVE. Visitors are dwarfed by the vast Hagia Sofia structure.
Pictures: Bruce Dennill

The acoustics of the Hagia Sophia mean you can hear snippets of conversation from all over the huge central chamber. And given that there is a hugely cosmopolitan crowd inside at any given time, you may be presented with an unexpectedly creative story, delivered in a handful of different languages. By listening in, you can learn a number of fascinating facts, including that an apparently plain section of floor is roped off because it is the spot where kings used to be crowned or that parts of the massive dome collapsed in the past – cue a cautious look upward and substantially less ill feeling towards whoever is responsible for the unsightly repair arrangements.

Ideally, make time to escape a tour group or discard the audio guide at some point during your visit.

If you’re a believer – in the Bible or the Koran – you’ll be able to imagine the feeling a worshipper might have had, arriving in the city after a long journey from some far-flung corner of the Roman or Ottoman Empire, to be greeted by the sight of this enormous, holy building, set on a hill so that it would be visible for great distances from any direction.